Hamming It Up In Trevelez

Trevelez
On Saturday we drove up to Trevelez, one of the highest year-round towns in Europe. Trevelez is famous for its mountain hams. It is curious that the whole town is dominated by the ham industry but we have not yet seen even one live pig. There are several ham factories and outlets in the town and even tour buses make the winding drive up to find a ham bargain. The hams are displayed as whole legs hanging from rope loops tied around the hoofs.

The hams are good hanging there for at least a couple of years judging by the expiration dates. And yes they are delicious! It’s true I have been partaking in this delicacy. Yes, me the ‘vegetarian’. There are gradations in the quality of hams with prices ranging from 6 to 35 euros per kg. among the ones we saw. There are particular varieties sold elsewhere that are from only rare white pigs and are prohibitively priced accordingly.
Wine, cheeses, dried fruits, nuts, olives and lemons are also locally produced and sold in the mountain stores along with the brightly colored locally loomed rugs and blankets that are invitingly draped outside. The colors are vivid: the blue skies and the white buildings provide a backdrop for the decorative tilework and flower-filled porches. The hills layer both taller and paler off into the distance. Snow-capped peaks of the tallest ranges sit in their frosted majesty overlooking the scope of their landscape domain. Small white villages are nestled into the hillsides which are zigzagged with the minor roads and walking paths that join the communities together. Returning from Tevelez we explored the La Taha villages, a set of seven or eight independent but interconnected towns. Pitres and Portugos are situated on the main road with links down to villages such as Mecina, Fondales, Ferreirola and Atalbeitar, each unique while retaining the unifying architectural structures and motifs and each sheltered by their respective church towers.

Approaching Our Last Week

Approaching Our Last Week
Okay, for those of you who may remain uncertain, yesterday’s blog was indeed an April Fools Trick. We are not moving to Bubion permanently. The Creperie is for sale but it costs about $1/2 million.
We have meanwhile been exploring the area around our village and took a couple of hours to walk from Bubion down to Pampaneira which was fine going downhill but a little tougher returning along the mountain path especially when it started to hail. Actually, it was a very pleasant hike and we got to look around our neighboring town, its artisan district, and the town square.

We have also been up to our Northern neighbor Capileira. Here we discovered a very handy gourmet supermercado where we could buy mountain ham and local artisanal cheeses. We ate dinner at a tiny vegetarian restaurant that had a strong Himalayan theme.

Granada and La Alhambra
Yesterday, we took the day to drive down to Granada. On the way down we picked up two young German women who were hitchhiking to the same destination as we were. It was interesting to hear about the abundant travels and experiences of a 22 year-old. Our day’s quest was to visit the exquisite gardens and palaces of La Alhambra, the last fortress of the Nasrid dynasty to fall before the hyperbolically named Christian Reconquest. La Alhambra was perhaps at its peak under the rule of Mohammed V during whose reign the jewel of the complex, the Palacio Nazaries, was built.

Millions of people travel to visit La Alhambra every year. In addition to the Palacio Nazaries, its main components are the fortress of Alcazaba, the Palace of Carlos V, and the Genaralife.
We followed the signs for the Sierra Nevada National Park on the way home and found ourselves rising rapidly up a mountain to the South of Granada. We had driven for a half hour before we realized that we were heading the wrong way. On the way back down we were afforded one of our most breathtaking views below Monachil.

That alone made our detour worthwhile. We then drove back to the outskirts of Granada, had a wonderful pizza and got directions home from the proprietor.

The Orgiva Thursday Market
Today we drove the long and winding road that took us to Orgiva, the capital of the area. The town is famous for its Thursday morning open market. The town market was just getting started when we arrived so we went for a cappuccino nearby and then spent some time checking out the wares of vendors from near and far. There were quite a few African people selling mostly leatherwork, cheap watches and some ‘designer brand’ clothing. Local farmers brought in a plentiful haul of fresh produce and a variety of spices.

Expats primarily from England sold mostly handmade goods including artwork and jewelry. Dreadlocked Hippies were selling homemade bread and offering free puppies with each loaf. We bought a wheat loaf and, although we were sorely tempted, we passed on the cute pups. The town was hopping for the day and people were crowding the main streets. However, just a block away we were once again able to find the quiet serenity that the mountain villages exude. We came upon a great pastry shop and this time we fell to the olfactory seduction of those particular sugary sirens.
So far, it seems that everything we approach, and everywhere we go, exceeds our expectations. We are truly blessed to be able to explore this magnificent part of such a diverse country.

Fulfilling A Dream In Bubion

What a whirlwind! Life is indeed full of surprises. We were saying how wherever we go we feel like we could end up living there. It has happened to us several times before, but the pull has never been so strong as it is here in the High Alpujarras. We were wondering how much property costs up here, knowing that some of the lower towns have become very popular with the British in particular. Further up, around here, there is a drop off in the cost of homes. The casita in which we are staying is owned by a British couple from Brighton. The question is always, “How could one make a living in a place so remote?” I started to think about ‘remoteness’. Madison is a long way from anywhere too. In distance, Bubion is closer to Granada than Madison is to Milwaukee. There are mountains, cities, beaches and antiquity all within distances far nearer than Chicago. People here are quite modern and civilized which can’t honestly always be said for rural Wisconsin. The more I thought, the more it seemed possible. We started to seriously consider pulling up roots (again, in my case!) and moving to this beautiful part of Spain. Cindy is surprisingly just as excited about the place as I am. She loves the clean air, the fresh spring water, the healthy walks, the artisanal crafts, the flair for design, and the caring for the environment. The fact that I am already a European Community citizen makes everything much easier and affords us with free healthcare.
As you know, when you put out a thought out as an intention things often begin to happen. We mentioned how much we loved this area to our ‘keyholder’ Robin, himself from Surrey, England. He told us how he had gone through some of the same questions before moving out here permanently five years ago. He said that it had been a ‘leap of faith’ for him, but things had worked out really well. He now has a mountain bike tour guide business and is starting to use his skills as a landscape architect to revitalize the mountain communities. We talked about how nice it would be to fulfill Cindy’s lifelong dream to open a simple restaurant and art gallery. We would be able to live simply, provide wonderful gourmet delights in small quantities in the restaurant, and display local artwork (including our own) for sale in the gallery. I could work on my art, photography and writing.
As we were walking through the village yesterday we noticed a creperie which looked very inviting and went in to get a cappuccino and sat on the patio overlooking the mountains.

The owners are a Spanish couple, a woman who speaks five languages who runs the restaurant and her husband, an oil painter, whose artwork was displayed throughout the place. The woman told us that the place is for sale as she and her Husband want to move to the coast to be closer to their daughter and new grandchild. They have been trying to sell the place for some time and are eager to move on. There is a small restaurant with two picturesque patios, and a nice sized restaurant kitchen in the back. The couple live upstairs in a quaint two bedroom house with an attached small one bedroom rental property. We were given the tour even though we were certain that the price would be way out of our range. We got on really well with the woman and talked about all kinds of things while she showed us the property which she had remodeled beautifully. She said that it was quite run down when they bought it several years ago and that they had continued to make a good profit on the place over the years. The apartment is always rented by locals but could easily be opened up to foreign visitors at a higher rate.
The woman was quite animated and at one point she looked directly at Cindy and said,
“You know, I am a little psychic. I already see you living happily in this place. I will make it happen for you if you would like.” We asked what she meant as we had both already totally and completely fallen in love with the place. She answered “My Husband and I, we already have plenty of money – that is not a problem.”
I jumped in, a little suspicious, “We honestly could never afford this place.”
She responded that the property is listed for British customers at 100,000 pounds. With the weakening of the pound that is less than $150,000. She said that there is a Welsh man who is interested in the place, “But I don’t like him. You, I like!”
Anyway to cut along story short, we took a day and a half to think about this and decided that we had no choice. It seems like our destiny, almost unavoidable. We talked with an Englishman who lives in nearby Orgiva who brokers properties in the area. He gave us all the necessary details. As a British citizen it is apparently quite easy to buy property in Europe. One last detail made the whole thing magically fall into place. The couple are willing to stay in the property until next Spring which will give us plenty of time to wind up our affairs in the U.S. before moving. The English broker was flabbergasted at the low price of the property stating, “I’ve never seen anything bloody like it; if you don’t buy the place I bloody well will.”
So we went ahead and signed on the dotted line and as long as the building inspection goes well and we can arrange all the financing from the States we will move in next April. The current owners will stay on for a while next year to show us how to run the business. We are overwhelmed with excitement. Some may think we are being impulsive but quite honestly we are nobody’s fools. Except, of course, yours.

At Our Casita, Bubion

Bubion
I can’t remember the last time that I had ten days to myself with no obligations. What a gift. Is this what retirement is like? Here we are in the most beautiful place imaginable in the high mountains in Spain, lazing, reading, replenishing. There truly is nothing that we have to do. Perhaps make a breakfast or go to the mercadero for supplies. Take a leisurely walk in the sleepy village. Go get a cappuccino. Write a novel, or at least a story. Oh dear, I’m feeling peckish, which restaurant shall we choose tonight? Oh look, storm clouds are starting to form over Capileira. Perhaps it’s time to start a fire. Or take a nap. There are several other villages to explore. We will definitely go down the mountain on Thursday to visit Orgiva. I understand that the open market is quite impressive. And a drive up to Trevillez would be nice; they have some of the best jambon in the world up there I am told. It is also the highest village in Europe by altitude. Let’s not forget Granada. What would a trip to Andalucia be like if we didn’t visit the Alhambra Palace. The Costa del Sol is only an hour and a half away…beautiful beaches, oceanside bodegas, seafood restaurants, and the Mediterranean blue to the coast of Africa. Every moment is precious; time drifts by.

A recent snowfall above Capileira.

In Bubion

Bubion
When the Moors were evicted from Granada, the last stronghold of an era of grace, they fled to the mountains and inhabited what became small mountain villages. Their knowledge of irrigation and terracing allowed them to maintain small farming-based communities. The architecture here in Las Alpujarras is almost identical to that which might be found in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. The houses are small and brightly whitewashed. The chestnut wooden rafters now hold up slate roofs which are adorned by chimneys each of which has its own particular charm and character. The world slows down here. On our first night the rain clouds rolled in providing a misty backdrop for the white villages. Upon waking we could see no further than our porch until the morning mist receded once again offering a heavenly view both down into the valley to the South and up to the snow-capped peaks North and East of here. Our evening was highlighted by our meal at a small restaurant, Estacion 4, where we were the only diners and, as such, were given a table by the fireplace. The owner/waiter/chef was a charming man who cooked and served us a Mediterranean plate and crock of vegetarian lasagna with goat cheese fresh out of the oven.
Our casita is a one room apartment. There are two French doors opening to the porch which overlooks the mountains. There is a kitchen, fireplace and bathroom. The walls are whitewashed and the ceiling has exposed log rafters. The bed is in an alcove. There is a magnificent silence here.
It is Sunday and we are relaxing into the pace of the village. We prepared a home cooked breakfast of eggs and potatoes with onions and garlic, coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice. A great way to start the day! We took an afternoon stroll into the village which was mostly deserted. It is possible to walk to each of the neighboring towns and there are mountain trails to explore until your legs fall off.

A view of the uppermost village of Capileira taken from near our casita:

From Cordoba To Bubion

Las Alpujarras
It is always difficult to leave a place that you have grown fond of. Medieval Cordoba represents the stronghold of that lost dream of peaceful co-existence, wherein religion was seen as a path to the mythic realms, while community provided the stable force to provide meaning within the mundane: “There is a reason to live, and the exploration of life is reason in itself.” The atmosphere of the place is palpable as we walk through the cozy cobble stoned backstreets where the sandals of the great poets and philosophers walked and where artisans worked there magic. This was the greatest city in Europe with over a million inhabitants. Where discussions included the appropriateness of names by which we might refer to our gods, and where rules of society were formed, some of which remain an essential part of constitutions throughout the world until this day.

I had a dream in which the Mezquita was filled with all the world’s refugees. They were in need of some supernal sustenance. The great minds were obligated to find a solution. The question was whether there was enough to go around. The answer was that with the correct attitude it would be possible for all to be fed.

I have taken so many photographs of churches, shrines, Jesus statues, Mary posters, stained glass windows, cathedrals, and altars that Cindy jokes that I am, “Turning Catholic.”

Bubion The drive from Cordoba by-passed Grenada and then took us up into the Sierra Nevada mountains. The incline was steep and sudden, heading up along hairpin bends barely wide enough for two vehicles with deep drop-offs inches to our right looking down into craggy valleys. A car could fall a long way quickly with one false move. Early along the journey into the mountains we looked out at eye level at giant windmills. Soon we were looking down on soaring hawks. We continued up past Lanjaron the first and largest of the mountain towns, and on to Orgiva the capital of the region. The road rose steeper still from here until we reached the first of the three white, mountain villages, Pampaniera, the gateway to our town, Bubion and on to Capileira; this trinity of mountain jewels set into the arid, terraced terrain and cradled under the snowy peaks of the tallest mountains in Europe besides the Alps.

The view from our porch:

Ubeda and Baeza - The Renaissance Cities

Ubeda And Baeza
We took the Peugeot for a drive today through scenic countryside, hills gently splayed to the horizon filled with neat lines of olive orchards spreading to eternity. Jaen Province provides 10% of the world’s olive oil.

Our two hour drive to Ubeda was pleasant. Once there, we were rewarded with a visit to the first of the Renaissance Cities, a well-maintained medieval district highlighted by the architecture of the area’s maestro Andres de Vandelvira and its centerpiece the Iglesia de San Pablo.

The area exuded a sense of calm and we felt that we had the whole place to ourselves unlike many of the more tourist-centered sites we have visited thus far.
A short drive took us to Baeza, the smallest and “brightest gem” of the Renaissance triangle (which also includes Jaen). Large limestone blocks are the primary architectural medium and are the building blocks for the Cathedral de Santa Maria.
Later we were introduced to a distant view of the splendor of the Sierra Nevada Mountain range which today was mostly cloaked in mist. Snow-capped peaks occasionally revealed themselves to give us a taste of what we might expect on the last leg of our journey starting tomorrow when we will make our way to our house in the mountains.