Monday, March 30, 2009

In Bubion

Bubion
When the Moors were evicted from Granada, the last stronghold of an era of grace, they fled to the mountains and inhabited what became small mountain villages. Their knowledge of irrigation and terracing allowed them to maintain small farming-based communities. The architecture here in Las Alpujarras is almost identical to that which might be found in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. The houses are small and brightly whitewashed. The chestnut wooden rafters now hold up slate roofs which are adorned by chimneys each of which has its own particular charm and character. The world slows down here. On our first night the rain clouds rolled in providing a misty backdrop for the white villages. Upon waking we could see no further than our porch until the morning mist receded once again offering a heavenly view both down into the valley to the South and up to the snow-capped peaks North and East of here. Our evening was highlighted by our meal at a small restaurant, Estacion 4, where we were the only diners and, as such, were given a table by the fireplace. The owner/waiter/chef was a charming man who cooked and served us a Mediterranean plate and crock of vegetarian lasagna with goat cheese fresh out of the oven.
Our casita is a one room apartment. There are two French doors opening to the porch which overlooks the mountains. There is a kitchen, fireplace and bathroom. The walls are whitewashed and the ceiling has exposed log rafters. The bed is in an alcove. There is a magnificent silence here.
It is Sunday and we are relaxing into the pace of the village. We prepared a home cooked breakfast of eggs and potatoes with onions and garlic, coffee and fresh-squeezed orange juice. A great way to start the day! We took an afternoon stroll into the village which was mostly deserted. It is possible to walk to each of the neighboring towns and there are mountain trails to explore until your legs fall off.
A view of the uppermost village of Capileira taken from near our casita:

2 comments:

Charles Dean Pierson said...

Sounds like heaven to me. And you are not even Catholic.

Have been reading American history of the first half of the 1800's. One way Catholics won converts then in the competition with Methodists was with the beautiful art and imagery of the churches. I've had that experience since early childhood --loving the beauty of the architecture, stained glass, art, and iconography.

Martin Saunders said...

Yes Chuck,
Churches dominated the landscape when religion ruled the roost. Nowadays the tallest buildings are commercial phallic symbols.